mile 82

The start of our trek to Machu Picchu was a little unconventional. Because of the strike our guides knew that we would have difficulty getting to the trail head of the Inca trail, so they decided we would try and beat the protesters and leave super early, so we all loaded into our bus at 3:00am. About an hour into the drive we hit our first road block, literally! We came to a screeching halt at a group of protesters lining the road with burning tires, rocks and whatever else they could move. Our tour guides, Eric and Andy, got out to go see if they could convince them to let us through while we all waited in the bus. After a while they came back discussed some things with the driver, all in Spanish, so we still had no idea what was going on, and then went back out. About 15 minutes later they came back in and told us that we would not be able to get through this way, but there was an alternative route that we could try. So after about a 30 point turn we were on our way again feeling rather optimistic all hunkered down trying to get a little more sleep. A short while later we were awoken by a loud popping sound, we had driven over a bunch of rocks on the road. Though thankfully no tires were popped. But soon we were at our next group of protesters blocking the road. Again our trusty guides got out to go see if they could persuade these locals to let us through. By this point we (there were 11 of us tourists total) were all starting to get a little frustrated, we had come all the way to Peru to do this hike, we had a schedule we had to keep which meant we had to hike the Inca trail these 4 days... on and on. After a while we again began to turn the bus around, we would try another way. Not a minute later though we ran into another road block. The protesters had literally trapped us. They had waited until we drove by, knowing we would hit the next road block and then quickly built another so that we literally could not go anywhere. 

 

This time there were protesters with rocks in hand threatening to throw them at our bus. Quickly our frustrations of not being able to get to mile 82 where turned into concerns of safety. Who cares about seeing Machu Picchu we have kids at home we need to get back too! Again our guides went out to see what they could do, although this time it wasn't long before they came back to say what was already so apparent, we weren't going anywhere. At this point it was only a little after 4, our guides only words of reassurance was that hopefully the police would come, maybe around 10? Of course at this point our imaginations are running wild, what are these people going to do to us, are we safe? Our group was composed of Canadians, Americans, and Europeans... if they were trying to get their governments attention taking 11 tourists hostage seemed like a good way to do....

Thankfully Eric is a super personable, level headed guy who can BS with anyone, so he headed back out to try and smooth things out with the protesters. Leaving us to STAY on the bus! Like we were going anywhere!!! So we did, for hours! Eventually Eric came back in to tell us we had to move the bus into the little "town", because there were other protesters who would be coming soon and they could get violent. So off we went, but not for long, of course it was super muddy and we were in a bus so not really great at off roading, we got stuck.

 It was only a little after 7 at his point, the promise that the police would come at 10 seemed like a life time away. Thankfully we came with food for our 4 day hike, so our porters whipped up a breakfast for us while we all got out and stretched our legs a little. We were stuck on a big hill overlooking a valley and while we waited for breakfast we watched as groups of 2 or 3 farmers made there way to a building at the bottom of the valley where a big protest was taking place. We watched and listened as the group got bigger and the shouts got louder, all the while praying that they would not head in our direction. The local protesters around us had warmed up to us and it was obvious that they meant us no harm at this point. They were actually quite friendly and some of the old ladies came over and tried to talk with us. They had nothing against us, we were just in the wrong place at the wrong time, and in order to make a point they couldn't let us through, but they told us we could walk there, it wasn't far. At least that is what we thought they said, most of us couldn't speak any Spanish but there were a few girls that together where able to communicate a little with the locals. Eventually the mob that was gathering in the valley made there way down the valley away from us, and breakfast was ready. At this point we were all able to settle down enough to enjoy the beautiful scenery!

 

  10:00 came and went with no sign of the police, so it was apparent we were on our own. Eric and Andy had made aquaintances with one of the famers who said we could get to Mile 82 on the back roads, for a small sum, literally small... what was equivalent to $18 Canadian,  he was willing to lead us. So at 1:00 we set off to what we thought would be a short drive (remember the old ladies had told us we could walk there) to mile 82, the starting point of the Inca trail.  

Of course we should have known nothing is that easy in Peru. We continued to hit road block after road block, luckily none of them where manned with protesters any more they were just blocking the roads so Eric and Andy would quickly clear the road and we would continue on the precarious dirt paths, at times it was so steep of rough that we had to get off of the bus and walk behind it.

There where however a couple of perks that came from taking this detour, 1. we got to see authentic, raw, REAL Peru. we drove through the littlest farming towns and got to see so much beautiful country side. 2. we got to see a couple of archeological sites along the way that were completely deserted because no other tourists where crazy enough to be out!

We eventually got to Urumbamba where we stopped and our porters made us lunch while Eric and Andy walked ahead to see what road blocks we would encounter next. They came back a while later saying they had good news, the strikers where currently in negotiations with the government and the strike was suppose to be over at 5:00. Which was good because currently they were completely blocking a bridge that we needed to cross and there was no way to get around it. So we hunkered down until 5:00.

But before we could continue on our trail we had to move the huge tree that was blocking the train track, as well as our road. This was the first time Eric and Andy had let us help with really anything so Dahlin was super eager to get out and help. Of course there were a few local men who gathered round and started yelling at them for moving there road block. But they backed off after a while.

We then continued on the rest of the way until we got to Ollantaytambo. At this point it was obvious that we were going to make it to the trail head, however we only had 4 porters with us. Because of the strike the remaining 10 other porters and our cook where trapped in Cusco. And without the 14 porters we legally weren't allowed on the trail. So Eric and Andy spent some time trying to scout some, but... because of the strike.... they had no luck. So we decided to just sleep at mile 82 and hopefully our porters could get to us by morning and we would be able to get a early start and make up some time that way. At the end of the day it had taken us 14 hours to travel what normally would have been a 3 hour drive. We were all grateful for the early bed time as everyone was emotionally exhausted!!